Kraków is tricky, especially shopping at the flea market where the treasures of those slaughtered are now available for a bargain.

The Nazis didn’t obliterate this pristine Medieval town because they chose it as the General Government, an Eastern outpost of the Third Reich. And they built their largest and most efficient extermination camps on the outskirts, the place where they perfected murdering thousands of people daily.

Without diminishing any number of horrifying atrocities, what happened here is different. It just is.

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