Mumbai

Mumbai

I met Sameer last night, a driver with an air-conditioned box cab who’s curried enough favor with the hotel’s front staff to get the better fares. I was determined to go on a club crawl and after the hotel-suggested bar turned out to be a wedding banquet,...
Dharavi

Dharavi

My tour guide, Shailesh, grew up in Dharavi, the second largest slum in the world, made famous by “Slumdog Millionaire.” He led me through impossibly small alleys lined with tiny huts, each one holding three generations, all soap-makers, leather workers,...

Mumbai

The best upgrade in my life at the Taj Hotel in Mumbai.